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Check engine light on
04-02-2015, 04:12 AM
Post: #1
Sad Check engine light on
I have a 92 toyota camry automatic 2.2 liter, I have a check engine light on. I diagnostic it & it read a code 11, what is the symptom: efi relay, throttle position Sensor or ignition problem. I try to start in the morning, I have to crank it a few times to get my car to start. What problem is it, What do i do?Sad
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04-02-2015, 06:05 AM
Post: #2
RE: Check engine light on
From what I read about a code 11 it sounds like you have lost power to the computer. It could be as simple as a blown fuse. That is where I would start. Check all of the fuses. If they are all good, clean, and tight you will need to check the wiring. I would probably start at the computer and work toward the source. If you check and have power at the computer you can stop there and we will need to look into another reason why you would have this code. If you don't have power there, start tracing the wires back until you find it.

Here is some information that may help:
http://www.troublecodes.net/toyota/toyot...-cressida/

Please let us know what you find.

Thanks for using the forum,
Garner

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04-02-2015, 10:01 AM
Post: #3
RE: Check engine light on
I'll give you a jump start on the diagnosis. Both Toyota and Nissan of that era bought their ignition switches from the same supplier in Japan. Not that they interchange but they have some common problems where the battery power to the ECM / ignition goes away during cranking. What I am driving at is start with Garner's suggestion of checking fuses then using a test light probe the wires on the ignition switch as you turn the key. You will find one that's hot all the time (battery) and one that goes off during cranking (radio / acc) one that is only hot for the starter / crank position, and one that should stay on for both "on" and "crank" if all is well. Work the switch several times and jiggle it to see if everything is good or if you possibly get flickering of the test light.

Suggestion: Pull the small wire off the starter during your test so you are not constantly cranking the engine.

The switch itself comes out the back of the ignition lock and they are fairly cheap. ($20?) IOW, no need to get new keys. Basically you remove the top / bottom shell from the steering column and look around the back side of where the key goes. It's usually held in place by 1-2 small screws.
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