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2002 Camry problem
09-14-2017, 08:09 PM
Post: #1
2002 Camry problem
I have a 2002 Camry XLE, 6 cyl. auto. My blower motor went out suddenly, I've checked the fuses (the one i could find in the fuse box under the dash, It doesnt appear blown) I pulled the blower motor and applied 12 volts to it and it spun fine, but I'm not getting ANY air circulation, in heat, a/c, window defroster. Nothing, no speed at all. When I check the blower plug I get a very low voltage reading (1.6) Are there some other fuses I'm missing, or possibly the resistor. I pulled what I was thinking to be the resistor and it looks fine- BUT it looks like a large heat sink, not like what I think a resistor should look like. Would appreciate any thoughts.
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09-14-2017, 11:55 PM
Post: #2
RE: 2002 Camry problem
Perhaps you are looking at the wrong part? The resistor should be located just to the left of the motor in the blower case. Likely it has 4-6 wires in the plug so should be easy to spot. Examine the plug for signs of heat damage along with the mating plug on the resistor itself. You can remove the 2 screws with a stubby Philips. The resistor does not look like a toaster coil (old style) and actually resembles an electronic circuit board dipped in a crusty ceramic substance so will probably not show any hot spots on the guts side. If the plug has heat damage you should try to locate a replacement either at a junk yard or an auto parts store. Some of the more popular ones are available in the aftermarket these days for around $50 as a kit that includes a new plastic plug, crimp connectors, and a short piece of the harness, so you can trim back beyond anything that looks flakey. The kit is MUCH easier to work with than making up your own from a pile of wire and connectors.
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09-15-2017, 02:41 PM
Post: #3
RE: 2002 Camry problem
(09-14-2017 11:55 PM)Rupe Wrote:  Perhaps you are looking at the wrong part? The resistor should be located just to the left of the motor in the blower case. Likely it has 4-6 wires in the plug so should be easy to spot. Examine the plug for signs of heat damage along with the mating plug on the resistor itself. You can remove the 2 screws with a stubby Philips. The resistor does not look like a toaster coil (old style) and actually resembles an electronic circuit board dipped in a crusty ceramic substance so will probably not show any hot spots on the guts side. If the plug has heat damage you should try to locate a replacement either at a junk yard or an auto parts store. Some of the more popular ones are available in the aftermarket these days for around $50 as a kit that includes a new plastic plug, crimp connectors, and a short piece of the harness, so you can trim back beyond anything that looks flakey. The kit is MUCH easier to work with than making up your own from a pile of wire and connectors.
Hey, Thanks for the reply. this thing was just to the left of the blower case, it had 4 wires going into it and was very difficult to get out, I had to use a very short stubby phillips head screwdriver, to get to the screws. This car is the automatic (climate control ? heat and A/C system) if that makes a difference ? I looked up the part(resistor) at the auto parts website, and the only parts they had looked like the one you described. But as far as I can tell this is the only thing down there that I can see, Oh, and it's connected in the same wiring harness as the blower motor plug.
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09-15-2017, 11:29 PM
Post: #4
RE: 2002 Camry problem
I am not a Toyota expert but good chance that's still the issue. Even the climate control version has to pick a blower speed and that's likely where they are the same. You should be able to figure out which terminal is the "power in" by testing the plug and then, using a meter, ohm out the various speeds to compare readings.... or use a jumper wire to feed across to the blower wire and make sure the switch is ok. (if it has one) Many of the climate controlled units go through a logic board and only feed a relay for the high speed. OTOH, my figuring is if it doesn't have any of the speeds then 90% sure it's the resistor itself, or a burned connection, which means a new resistor and a new harness with a new plug.
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