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2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
03-21-2011, 03:43 PM
Post: #1
2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
I have a 2004 grand cherokee 4.7 V-8 that has a parasitic draw on the battery greater than 10 amps. My multimeter is 10 amp max. and I am tired of buying fuses for the meter to locate the problem and keeping the battery constantly charged. Also I cannot afford a new meter or attachment clamp right now to narrow the circut down. Checked lights, cigarette lighter and other common occurance issues. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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03-21-2011, 09:14 PM
Post: #2
RE: 2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
Have you taken the cable off the alternator? Being a 10 amp or larger draw has to be a large component.

Being way2old is why I need help from younger minds.

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03-21-2011, 09:24 PM
Post: #3
RE: 2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
What I would do is use the test light method... easy and simple.

Disconnect one of the battery cables and put the test light between the battery terminal and the cable end. If that draw is present it will light as brightly as being between pos / neg. IOW, seeing 12 volts. Now start pulling fuses one at a time till the light goes dim or out completely. (probably will not go out completely)

Just a couple of pointers because cars are not as easy as they once were.... If you are working with the door open then you will need to remember the dome light circuit is on. (remove that fuse first?) The other part is some cars have more than one fuse box. Still another is about certain circuits not being fused but run through fuse links and feeding relays. IOW, you may want to start pulling relays one at a time too. The owners manual may tell you what else is on a particular fuse or relay, beyond what it says under the cover.

Once you find the circuit(s) that dim the test light you can use your amp meter to see what's left. A normal draw for various accessories (radio, clock, ECM memory) should be in the area of 1/4 amp or less.

BTW, there are a few things thar are supposed to "go to sleep" shortly after the key is off and a BCM (Body Control Module) is one of them. If that fails the battery will go dead in an afternoon or over night. Same goes for the high powered amp on the fancy stereo option. Post back what you find and we can talk more about that later if needed. The last item is the alternator itself. IOW, if all else fails to dim that test light try removing the large wire from the back of the alternator and also the plug with the small wires. A failed internal diode will pull more than 10 amps so this may be a good place to start even if it seems to charge ok.
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03-27-2011, 01:30 PM
Post: #4
Toungue RE: 2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
I applied the recommended suggestions from way2old and rupe to no avail. FYI I failed to mention in my 1st post that this is the 2nd battery I have installed and the charging system was checked out both times. To be sure I followed your advice and found no problem with the alternator. I proceeded with the light test removing one fuse and relay at a time. no results. I then borrowed an obdII tester and (all) sysems passed. I apparently have a relay that I cannot locate or this problem is on a circut that stays hot all the time. I appreciated your advice. STILL STUMPED! I'm open to any new suggestions.
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03-27-2011, 07:00 PM (This post was last modified: 03-27-2011 07:08 PM by Rupe.)
Post: #5
RE: 2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
For sure this is a problem with a circuit that is "live" all of the time or it would not go dead over night.... unless you are in the habit of leaving the key on while parked.

Let's do a recap here because we have obviously missed something.

You pulled ALL of the wires from the alternator, right?
You pulled ALL of the fuses and relays (more than one fuse box?) right?
Did you pull ALL of the fuse links and circuit breakers? (common for power seats and windoows)
Are there any more relays under the dash? (most are fused but an aftermarket installation may not be)
Is there a rear mounted "power port" for accessories that may have something plugged in?
Are there any aftermarket options installed on this car that may not be tied into a fuse box? (stereo, alarm, lighting, Lo-Jack, trailer brake package, etc)

At this point (using a test light) there should only be power to the starter and any smaller wires attached to either the possitive battery cable or at the large starter terminal. (some of those may be fuse links) Continue from that point and see where else the wires go. You may need to follow the harness through the firewall or under carpet but seeing as the draw is still there obviously something is still connected.

Keep us posted on any progress.
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03-27-2011, 09:39 PM
Post: #6
RE: 2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
A couple more things to think about. If you borrowed a "Code Reader" to check the OBD-II Codes you likely only checked 1/5 of the systems. Most code readers won't scan the Body Control Module (BCM), the Anti-Lock Brake System, the Air Bag system, and the Automatic Transmission system.

Another thing that I think that it was Rupe had mentioned. Someone he knew had lost the remote door lock transmitter in the couch cushions and would sit on it in the evening. This would unlock the trunk, turn on the trunk light, and kill the battery by morning. We had one; it was even a Jeep, that the guy had the remote in his pocket and the lock button was partially stuck. Any time he was in range the locks would cycle which in time would kill the battery.

I hope something there might help.

Thanks for using the forum,
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08-09-2011, 05:20 PM (This post was last modified: 08-09-2011 05:52 PM by ron harris.)
Post: #7
RE: 2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
(03-27-2011 09:39 PM)Garner Wrote:  A couple more things to think about. If you borrowed a "Code Reader" to check the OBD-II Codes you likely only checked 1/5 of the systems. Most code readers won't scan the Body Control Module (BCM), the Anti-Lock Brake System, the Air Bag system, and the Automatic Transmission system.

Another thing that I think that it was Rupe had mentioned. Someone he knew had lost the remote door lock transmitter in the couch cushions and would sit on it in the evening. This would unlock the trunk, turn on the trunk light, and kill the battery by morning. We had one; it was even a Jeep, that the guy had the remote in his pocket and the lock button was partially stuck. Any time he was in range the locks would cycle which in time would kill the battery.

I hope something there might help.

I must have affected something because the battery will last 3 days now before a charge is required if not ran. I have double and triple checked everything! Pulling every fuse, circut breaker and relay I could find; engine, under dash, rear compartment. The OBD tester I borrowed checked [all] the systems, body control, xmission etc. There are no after market accessories on the vehicle. remotes checked out OK and we have been locking the vehicle manually. There is a module under the passenger side dashboard I'm afraid to touch. Don't know what else to do except live with it! I also disconnected the cruise control switch that was not working. All your advice is appreciated.
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08-09-2011, 10:02 PM
Post: #8
RE: 2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
If all else fails then something was overlooked! (or maybe there's more than one problem)

What happens if you disconnect the battery completely? Will it last for more than 3 days?

Have you tried the test light proceedure I outlined earlier to see about reducing the draw to a point where the test light almost goes out?

When you pulled those fuses did you put each one back in as you went along or leave them all out till you were done? (more than one circuit drawing?)

There is a fix, it's just a matter of finding which circuit(s) are involved.
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08-27-2011, 04:06 PM (This post was last modified: 08-27-2011 04:38 PM by ron harris.)
Post: #9
RE: 2004 Jeep grand cherokee parasitic loss
(08-09-2011 10:02 PM)Rupe Wrote:  If all else fails then something was overlooked! (or maybe there's more than one problem)

What happens if you disconnect the battery completely? Will it last for more than 3 days?

Have you tried the test light proceedure I outlined earlier to see about reducing the draw to a point where the test light almost goes out?

When you pulled those fuses did you put each one back in as you went along or leave them all out till you were done? (more than one circuit drawing?)

There is a fix, it's just a matter of finding which circuit(s) are involved.

(08-09-2011 10:02 PM)Rupe Wrote:  If all else fails then something was overlooked! (or maybe there's more than one problem)

What happens if you disconnect the battery completely? Will it last for more than 3 days?

Have you tried the test light proceedure I outlined earlier to see about reducing the draw to a point where the test light almost goes out?

When you pulled those fuses did you put each one back in as you went along or leave them all out till you were done? (more than one circuit drawing?)

There is a fix, it's just a matter of finding which circuit(s) are involved.

Rupe I must have affected something. the battery will last 2 days without a charge. using a test light I've removed the alternator completely and pulled every single fuse and relay I could find, one at a time and several that I thought might belong to the same system. I could not locate a fuse or relay panel in the raer compartment. everything back there comes from under dash. As I mentioned in another post the OBD tester I used checked ALL the vehicle systems. Body control Xmission etc. The vehicle was purchased new (no add ons) and there is nothing plugged in. We have been locking the vehicle manually but the alarm system light stilll flashes. Must be on a stay hot connection. cannot locate fuse or power source for the alarm. The same for power seats and I keep trying to get my big hands under seat to disconnect. Battery is fine if disconnected. your advice has been and still is appreciated.
Rupe I must have affected something. the battery will last 2 days without a charge. using a test light I've removed the alternator completely and pulled every single fuse and relay I could find, one at a time and several that I thought might belong to the same system. I could not locate a fuse or relay panel in the raer compartment. everything back there comes from under dash. As I mentioned in another post the OBD tester I used checked ALL the vehicle systems. Body control Xmission etc. The vehicle was purchased new (no add ons) and there is nothing plugged in. We have been locking the vehicle manually but the alarm system light stilll flashes. Must be on a stay hot connection. cannot locate fuse or power source for the alarm. The same for power seats and I keep trying to get my big hands under seat to disconnect. Battery is fine if disconnected. your advice has been and still is appreciated.
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