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overheating
07-02-2011, 06:43 PM
Post: #1
overheating
I HAVE A 2000 SEABRING. LAST YEAR MY CAR RAN HOT IN THE SUMMER. THIS SUMMER THE SAME THING. ONLY DIFFERANCE IS THAT THIS YEAR IT BOILED OUT OF THE OVERFLOW TANK. SINCE THEN I HAVE REPLACED TEMP SENSOR, THERMOSTAT, DIPPED THE RADIATOR AND FLUSHED IT, REPLACED HOSES, THE FAN WORKS LIKE IT SHOULD, AND HAD A PRESSURE TEST DONE TO IT WITH THE RESULTS OF NO LEAKS. THE CAR STILL RUNS HOT. IT TAKES ABOUT 15 MIN DRIVING, AND LONGER WHEN JUST SITTING THERE PARKED(LIKE WHEN I WAS BURPING IT) I REPLACED THE RADIATOR CAP AND THE ONE TO THE OVERFLOW TANK. AT THE SHOP THEY TRIED TO DO A BLOCK TEST I THINK IT WAS CALLED, BUT THE CAR KEPT BURPING WATER UP SO THEY COULDNT DO IT. THE REVERSE TEST CAME BACK FINE. THE WATER PUMP IS NOT LEAKING AND I AM NOT LOOSEING FLUID. ANY IDEAS ON THAT IS SOME OTHER POSSIBILITIES? THE RADIATOR LOOKS FINE ALSO. WAS TOLD LAST YEAR AFTER THE DIP THAT WASNT THE PROBLEM. COULD IT BE THAT PART OF MY SKID GUARD IS MISSING?
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07-02-2011, 08:23 PM
Post: #2
RE: overheating
My first suspect would be air trapped in the system. This is a VERY common cause of overheating and also likely why the car kept “burping” while trying to do the test you spoke of. Some engines have a small bleeder to remove the air. If there isn’t a bleeder you can raise the front of the vehicle either by jacking it up or driving it up on some sort of ramp. Start the engine with the cap off and keep burping it until all of the air is removed. If you can’t get the air out I would then suspect a cracked head or blown head gasket. Don’t suspect bigger problems until you try getting the air out as this is a REALLY common issue.

Please let us know what you find.

Thanks for using the forum,
Garner

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07-03-2011, 06:10 PM (This post was last modified: 07-03-2011 06:13 PM by retired.)
Post: #3
RE: overheating
(07-02-2011 08:23 PM)Garner Wrote:  My first suspect would be air trapped in the system. This is a VERY common cause of overheating and also likely why the car kept “burping” while trying to do the test you spoke of. Some engines have a small bleeder to remove the air. If there isn’t a bleeder you can raise the front of the vehicle either by jacking it up or driving it up on some sort of ramp. Start the engine with the cap off and keep burping it until all of the air is removed. If you can’t get the air out I would then suspect a cracked head or blown head gasket. Don’t suspect bigger problems until you try getting the air out as this is a REALLY common issue.

Please let us know what you find.




Garner is correct with his advise on trapped air . Here is a procedure for removing trapped air:

Remove cooling system pressure cap and fill cooling system with recommended coolant.
Slowly continue filling until a steady stream of coolant flows from bleed valve.
Close bleed valve .
Fill coolant to the top of pressure cap neck.
Install cooling system pressure cap.
Fill coolant recovery container to the MAX mark.
Start engine and allow to run until thermostat opens and radiator fans cycle. NOTE: It may be necessary to add additional coolant to the coolant recovery container after three or four warm-up/cool down cycles to maintain coolant level between the WIN and MAX marks; if any additional trapped air was removed from the system.
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