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2000 s-10 Blazer
06-01-2013, 08:12 PM
Post: #1
2000 s-10 Blazer
I have a 2000 s-10 blazer zr2 with a 4.3L CMFI engine it has 140,000 miles and is driven in Wisconsin. Sometimes my engine will crank over but will not start for a long time up to 30 - 40 sec. when this happens it will also spit and sputter anywhere from 1 to 15 miles and then seems to run fine. I seem to have this problem when there is moisture in the air. (after it rains or is humid or foggy out) Any ideas on what would cause this seems like its electrical rather than fuel related but I am not sure
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06-01-2013, 11:59 PM
Post: #2
RE: 2000 s-10 Blazer
If that engine has a distributor cap I would guess that to be the problem. If you read through some of the old posts you will see that the cap & rotor are a big issue with the 4.3L GM. Buy a GM cap & rotor and save yourself a lot of headaches. The after market ones don’t seem to cut it.

There could be other issues like plug wires, bad coil packs or even regular wiring issues. You might want to have the computer scanned for any fault codes. Record all of the code numbers, have the computer cleared & post the code numbers here for review.

Please let us know what you find.

Thanks for using the forum,
Garner

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06-02-2013, 09:52 AM
Post: #3
RE: 2000 s-10 Blazer
Garner has that down pretty well but I have a fleet of vehicles with the 4.3 so I will throw my 2 cents into the ring.

In that era they certainly had a distributor style ignition and off brand parts are suspect. Nothing lasts as long as a Delco in my experience. Delco costs more but I have found that it's worth it to go 100k miles without having to worry. So, if you can't recall when your last full tune up was I would start there.

Next on the list is that magic number of 140k miles. Since I have that fleet and some vehicles are pushing 300k miles I have seen a regular pattern of "wear items" that few others notice. This is about when I see ignition coils fail, it's tpically within a few months of changing a cap / rotor or other ignition parts that may have caused a skip in the recent past. What happens is the old insulation breaks down and you get carbon trails / arcing, especially on a cool / damp morning. Yes, once the engine starts the heat will dry things out but eventually it will fail to start. Expect to spend $300 - $400 for OEM cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and coil.

Not to throw a monkey wrench into the works but that mileage is also when fuel pumps normally go out as well. It doesn't sounds as if that is your problem now but I'd keep that in the back of your mind if you plan to keep this vehicle. I have used several brands over the years and have gone back to Delco. Everything else craps out early. Expect to pay near $400 for that. It's inside the fuel tank and comes as a complete sending unit with the gas gauge included.

Oh, if you are going to do the tune up parts you might as well change the fuel filter & air filter too. Regular fuel filter changes also extend the life of the fuel pump because it doesn't have to work as hard.
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06-02-2013, 11:43 PM
Post: #4
RE: 2000 s-10 Blazer
Thanks for the advice. I did replace the fuel pump last year along with the exhaust system so I know I need to fix this problem before I ruin the new catalytic converter. The only other question would be is do I need to replace the camshaft and crankshaft sensors or should I just start with the cap, rotor and coil?
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06-03-2013, 12:05 AM (This post was last modified: 06-03-2013 12:09 AM by Rupe.)
Post: #5
RE: 2000 s-10 Blazer
Start with the "full tune" as mentioned above and while in there look closely at the distributor for wear. (side play in the shaft is common and will be REALLY obvious) I have never had to replaced a crank sensor on a 4.3 but have replaced a hand full of distributors for wear. The code always comes up as "cam sensor out of range" which in this case *IS* the distributor. Replacement distributors will come with a cap & rotor, which are junk. Plan on replacing the cap and rotor with OEM within 6 months if this is the case... or do it right away to save future issues. I have had good luck with Cardone brand replacements and they are under $100 wholesale price. (if you can get that discount)

Hint: if you can get a scan done for trouble codes a multiple cyl misfire can be either a coil or related to a bad dist. If the shaft is tight for side play I would go with a coil replacement first, along with the full tune parts.

BTW, if the coil is arcing at the "tower" there's a good chance the coil wire is also NG, in which case you should be replacing the rest of the ignition wires.
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