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Break In
10-14-2013, 05:10 PM
Post: #1
Sad Break In
Are any of these superior than other for Engine Break In requirement
:;: Joe Gibbs, Royal Purple, STP Oil Treatment, Lucas additive break in oils. ?
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10-14-2013, 06:26 PM (This post was last modified: 10-14-2013 06:28 PM by tommyboy.)
Post: #2
RE: Break In
ok I have had this conversation with a few people but crane cams went out of business because of a lot of oil companys no longer use an additive in there oil so if this is a full rebuild I would recommend getting an additive for the oil I was told to use this so I did not burn up my motor . can get at almost any part store or online the additive is in diesel oil but not in regular oil


good luck

help where i can leave the rest up to the everybody else
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10-14-2013, 10:23 PM
Post: #3
RE: Break In
I used to think along those lines and based on experience I would say if you used an assembly lube plus a quality motor oil it's not necessary. A good oil with the proper rating will have all you need. I have probably rebuilt about 500 engines over the years and never had one come back due to early wear. Matter of fact I have seen a few of my older customers come in years later to report as much as 300,000 miles and still going strong after I educated them on certain maint tips.

The key to a proper break in period is to allow a few seconds of warm up before loading the engine and the same before shut down, along with varied speeds and light loads. NEVER haul a trailer or drive in the mountains during the first 1,000 miles either. Try to keep your driving at less than half throttle and avoid anything over 3,000 RPM for more than a few seconds. Change the oil and filter after 1,000 miles then drive like a human instead of a maniac and the engine should last a LONG time.

The next part of the education is reading the label on the oil containers. Learn what those letters mean in the "circle" on the bottle. All oil is rated with these letters starting with "SA" years ago and going up over the last 30 years. SA, SB, SC, are almost impossible to find these days and SA is not even meant to be in a car engine because it's non-detergent. (typical of 40's and 50's vintage specs) Most cars these days call for SG, SH, SJ, and higher. The higher letters are all about the oil's ability to withstand higher temps for longer periods before they stop lubricating correctly. It's an industry standard so different oils with the same rating are basically the same as far as the engine is concerned.

The "weight" of the oil is another story. Use what they spec out not what you feel is right, unless it's a special application. Using 5W-30 as an example, the 5 is what the oil's thickness (viscosity) is when cold. The W is for winter. (yes, cold) The 30 is a chemical property that allows the oil to act as if it's 30 weight, which is basically for when the engine is hot. IOW, it's roughly the same as using straight 30 weight, but 30 weight by itself would cause issues on a cold engine. It's chemical engineering at it's best. You have thin oil for fast circulation and easy starting when cold but the protection of something heavier while hot. The same story goes for 0W-30 or 20W-50. Pause to read the label and you will see what I mean.

I wont go into synthetic oil versus old fashion oils or the various blends. Needless to say these do cost more and you can go longer between changes, but the key to good maint is being under the hood more often than once a year, which is what most people do when they switch to synthetic.... then they wonder why they have other troubles.
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10-22-2013, 08:53 PM
Post: #4
RE: Break In
Thank you for the information about the Oiling.
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