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46RE Transmission Teardown DIY
10-30-2013, 10:51 PM
Post: #1
46RE Transmission Teardown DIY
HI! I am Christian.

I am currently in the process of taking apart my 46re transmission that was in my dodge 1999 Durango. I took some photographs of the individual parts that were in the bellhousing and wanted to know is all of them look decent, or if some of them need to be replaced.

Here is the website where you can view the photos.
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10-30-2013, 11:08 PM
Post: #2
RE: 46RE Transmission Teardown DIY
The link seems to be broken. I can't look at the pictures?

Thanks for using the forum,

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10-31-2013, 10:00 AM
Post: #3
RE: 46RE Transmission Teardown DIY are right

is it working now?
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10-31-2013, 01:27 PM
Post: #4
46RE Transmission Teardown DIY
Wow, is this going to be difficult! That was a lot of pictures. I worked in a Transmission Rebuild Shop, but the 46RE was not my specialty. I will have to rely on what I remember from helping on this one.

I guess I’ll start with a summary of what I seen in the pictures, questions that I have, and what I think that I would do to get started.

From the first 3 pictures of the magnet, I don’t see anything serious. That makes me ask my first question, Why are you doing this re-build? What was the symptoms that caused you to pull the tranny in the first place? Did you have the computer scanned before pulling it? Did you find any Codes? If so, what where the code Numbers?

From what I could see in the pictures I think that I would go with a complete overhaul kit, Less Steels. The Steels are the plates that go between the Frictions in each clutch pack. By looking at the pictures of the Steels and what was on the magnet, I don’t think that you need them. Now if someone just changed the fluid, cleaned the magnet, tried to drive it and it didn’t work??? You didn’t picture all of the steels so I can’t say for sure. The kit should contain all of the Frictions, Gaskets, Seals, O-rings & even the check balls & tiny filters that go inside of the valve body.

Most kits do NOT include a pan filter. This is because there are different filters for 2 and 4 wheel drive, deep and shallow pans. Make sure to get the right one. Check your re-build kit, it probably comes with a pan gasket; if so, you can save a buck by getting the filter without the gasket.

The kit won’t include the Bands. They could be OK? I usually just replace them. That is going to have to be your call. The Thrust Bearings probably won’t come with the kit either. If you know how to spin them in your hand to feel if they are smooth or gritty you may decide that way. I usually just replace them too.

I always replace the Torque Converter on any re-build. The main reason is that you can’t get all of the fluid & dirt out of it. That means that you contaminate your re-build as soon as you start the engine. The other reason is that you can’t see in it to check anything so you really don’t know what’s going on in it.

That reminds me of the cooler. It also holds dirt that can contaminate the system. You should spend some extra time flushing it! You can buy cans of pressurized Flushing Fluid. I always got a nice, clean, white container ready. First, just use shop air to blow out as much fluid as possible. Try to blow through both lines. (Some Dodges have a Check Valve that will only let you go one way.) After that, put your white pan under one line and put Flush in the other until it comes out in the pan. Then blow that out with shop air. Repeat this until it is Clean in the pan. You can wrap a rag around the line while blowing through it to prevent a mess. If you can’t get it clean, it feels restricted, or you just don’t trust it you can get “After market, add on” coolers that work well.

I didn’t see any pictures of the pump disassembled. There will be 2 gears inside of it. They need to be checked for deep scratches, and grooving as well as the surfaces that they ride in. I won’t be able to tell much from a picture. It’s a “Hands On” thing like checking the bearings. If the pump is OK the kit should contain the gasket, seal, and sealing rings for it.

Picture #97 seems to show a piece broken out? I can’t tell from the picture. If it’s broke you should have found the missing part in the pan or rolling around in the tranny.

Picture #133, you may want to replace that driving shell as the splines are pretty worn.

Pictures #142-148, Planetary Gears. You want to grasp each gear and try to wiggle it on the shaft. “End Play” is OK but you don’t want them to wiggle on the shafts. Hold them under a good light and inspect all of the teeth. Surface scratches, dents, and slight discoloration are nothing to worry about. You are looking for Chips in the “Hard Surface” of the teeth or extreme wear. Check the other planets the same way.

Picture #154, I would replace that Sun Gear. I can see some wear on it and you have to remember that it gets 4 times the wear of the Planets riding on it. Most of the ones that I have seen are in pretty bad shape.

As a final note, this isn’t really a DIY job. There are a lot of special tools, knowledge, and experience that go along with a successful rebuild. If this is your first one you may want to befriend someone in the business that can give you a “Hand On” look! At any rate, please keep us posted as to your progress. This is very interesting!

Here's a link that could help you: Transtar Transmission

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10-31-2013, 10:51 PM
Post: #5
RE: 46RE Transmission Teardown DIY
I'm with Garner here and want to know why you are knee deep in this trany, unless it's just high miles and needing to be refreshed. With an auto trans I always go with those 3 monkeys.... seen no evil, hear no evil, then speak no evil!

If there's nothing odd about the oil (or in the pan during tear down) then I go with my gut feelings that require a good "listen" on a road test. If I "hear no evil" then I usualy don't expect to see any evil either.

That said, the test drive (and listening) is just as much of the diagnosis as pulling the pan BEFORE trany removal. Looking at what's in the pan (reading the tea leaves) is always the next step, even if you are sure the thing is toast.

Oh, you are this far into it so the bands should be replaceded. At twenty bucks and change each (discounted) it's cheap insurance and it will also make final adjustments fall in line better. I never trust a torque spec on a used part. You never know exactly where the wear factor is or how close you are. With a new part you are always on the money.

Will await the next chapter of the story!
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11-06-2013, 08:47 PM
Post: #6
RE: 46RE Transmission Teardown DIY
Thank you all for your input. I really appreciate it! Why did I choose to take my transmission apart? Here is an outline I made to explain why.

1.Transmission slipping from 1st to 2nd
2.Front band anchor found in pan
3.Fluid and filter change
- had not changed fluid for a long period of time
- fluid was dark
- no shavings found
- the magnet in pan was dirty
4. Some time passed and transmission went into limp mode giving two codes on the scanner:
- P0753 (M) Transmission 3-4 Shift Solenoid/Transmission Relay Circuits An open or shorted condition detected in the transmission 2-4 shift solenoid circuit (4-speed auto. Trans. Only).
- P1765 (M) Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay CTRL Circuit Current state of solenoid output port is different than expected (4-speed auto. Trans. Only).
5. Did some research on the codes
- P0753 refers to relay, relay socket, TCM, shift solenoid, harness as the issue
6. Tested the relay and socket with test light, tested ok
7. Decided to replace the solenoid set based on research (shift solenoid most likely the issue)
8. Decided to remove transmission and rebuild after considering the front band anchor had been off for some time ( I found later in my research that it is possible to reinstall the anchor by removing pan and valve assembly) and looking for worn parts from original slipping problem
9. I took pictures of all gears and washers found in bell housing and uploaded them for this forum to ask others which parts look worn and what should be replaced and which rebuild kit is recommended
10. Beginning to put together a complete tutorial based on forum answers and other research specifically for this rebuild before I begin the repair

I also had some other people's input on different forums.

"Just looking at your pics quickly, it appears to be a healthy wearing transmission. The front band is totally shot as there is no material left on the band. I would replace the band and the front drum. Just curious, what was it doing that cause yo to pull is and disassemble it?"

"The only thing I suppose you could tell by the eyeball method is the cracked rubber boot in one of those pics."

"Overall looks good to be rebuilt, inspect the parts were you found the worn trust washers and replace if rough. "

Any more ideas? Thanks
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11-06-2013, 09:07 PM
Post: #7
RE: 46RE Transmission Teardown DIY
Wow, looks like you are knee deep in GOOD homework too!

Seriously, you answered my questions and I feel you are on the right track to a great job, well done.

BTW, if that drum has any wear marks then probably best to replace it. I'll bet that band anchor fell off because the band was too worn, which is probably common enough. Same with those thrust washers. If they are worn looking then change them for new. They are cheap enough and you will be at the dealer (or other supply house) anyway.
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