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cruse control failure
11-16-2013, 02:41 PM
Post: #1
cruse control failure
[/color]I ow[color=#000080]n a 2005 lincoln town car, signature series. I must depress the turn on switch on steering wheel 20-30 times before it will turn on. Does this switch pick a relay when depresed or is it all done by solid state electronics??? Can anyone supply a wiring diagram of this circuite. If there is a relay involved, which one is it and where is it located?? Any and all help will be appriciated. schaffer78.
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11-16-2013, 07:13 PM
Post: #2
RE: cruse control failure
Before you get too involved with serious circuit tracing I would use a meter on the switch itself to see if that is working EVERY time you hit the button. I know it sounds almost too simple but those switches (all cars) are probably the most frequent cause of issues. Sometimes they just get crud in them so you can't depress them fully.
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11-16-2013, 07:38 PM (This post was last modified: 11-16-2013 08:25 PM by schaffer78.)
Post: #3
RE: cruse control failure
(11-16-2013 02:41 PM)schaffer78 Wrote:  [/color]I own a 2005 lincoln town car, signature series. I must depress the turn on switch on steering wheel 20-30 times before it will turn on. Does this switch pick a relay when depresed or is it all done by solid state electronics??? Can anyone supply a wiring diagram of this circuite. If there is a relay involved, which one is it and where is it located?? Any and all help will be appriciated. schaffer78.

(11-16-2013 07:38 PM)schaffer78 Wrote:  
(11-16-2013 02:41 PM)schaffer78 Wrote:  I ow[color=#000080]n a 2005 lincoln town car, signature series. I must depress the turn on switch on steering wheel 20-30 times before it will turn on. Does this switch pick a relay when depresed or is it all done by solid state electronics??? Can anyone supply a wiring diagram of this circuite. If there is a relay involved, which one is it and where is it located?? Any and all help will be appriciated. schaffer78. OK Rupe how do I remove this switch from the stearing wheel and check the switch with a ohm meter. Schaffer78
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11-17-2013, 01:59 PM
Post: #4
RE: cruse control failure
Sorry for the delay.

If the switch is on the signal stalk you can usually see the small wires if you look closely through the opening on the side of the clam-shell covering the steering column so you will need to remove that. If it's on the face of the wheel you will need to get the air bag out of the way first, which means disconnecting the battery to avoid having an issue with the restraint system going off accidentally. Once you have access to that area you can more easily see what to check. In the case of a wheel mounted switch the contacts must traven through the clock-spring behind the wheel to get to the car's wiring so if the switch checks out ok then you should probably replace the clock-spring. That's a common wear item these days.

Here's a couple of videos to give you the general idea of how to go about this.

Airbag removal http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZ8AAXQL5HI

Clock-spring replacement http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1drd_-fAn6A
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11-17-2013, 04:29 PM
Post: #5
RE: cruse control failure
(11-17-2013 01:59 PM)Rupe Wrote:  Sorry for the delay.

If the switch is on the signal stalk you can usually see the small wires if you look closely through the opening on the side of the clam-shell covering the steering column so you will need to remove that. If it's on the face of the wheel you will need to get the air bag out of the way first, which means disconnecting the battery to avoid having an issue with the restraint system going off accidentally. Once you have access to that area you can more easily see what to check. In the case of a wheel mounted switch the contacts must traven through the clock-spring behind the wheel to get to the car's wiring so if the switch checks out ok then you should probably replace the clock-spring. That's a common wear item these days.

Here's a couple of videos to give you the general idea of how to go about this.

Airbag removal http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZ8AAXQL5HI

Clock-spring replacement http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1drd_-fAn6A
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11-17-2013, 04:40 PM
Post: #6
RE: cruse control failure
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11-17-2013, 05:04 PM
Post: #7
RE: cruse control failure
(11-17-2013 01:59 PM)Rupe Wrote:  Sorry for the delay.

If the switch is on the signal stalk you can usually see the small wires if you look closely through the opening on the side of the clam-shell covering the steering column so you will need to remove that. If it's on the face of the wheel you will need to get the air bag out of the way first, which means disconnecting the battery to avoid having an issue with the restraint system going off accidentally. Once you have access to that area you can more easily see what to check. In the case of a wheel mounted switch the contacts must traven through the clock-spring behind the wheel to get to the car's wiring so if the switch checks out ok then you should probably replace the clock-spring. That's a common wear item these days.

Here's a couple of videos to give you the general idea of how to go about this.

Airbag removal http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZ8AAXQL5HI

Clock-spring replacement http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1drd_-fAn6A
Thank you all for your expert advice. This reply is especally for Rupe. I have ordered thru Amazon the exact switch replacement for my 2005 lincoln town car for $39.98. The factory part no. is SW-6165, Motorcraft. I still need some help in removing the air bag so I can replace the cruse control switches, mounted on the left front of the stearing wheel. I see 4-holes on the back side of the stearing wheel, 2-on each side BUT there does not appear to be any screws in thoes holes!!!! What kind of screws should be there,philips,allen,bristal??? I purchased the vehicle used in 2005, do you think it is possable that the air bag was replaced befor I owned it and they never replaced the screws!!!???? I need all of your help in solving this problem. Thanks again. Schaffer78l
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11-17-2013, 08:47 PM
Post: #8
RE: cruse control failure
Just a couple of reminders before starting the job:

First is to set the wheels straight ahead then remove the key to keep them locked there.
Second thing is to disconnect the battery, touch the cable ends together to discharge any stored power, then let some time to pass which will allow any other stored power to drain away from the various systems in the car. Reading this will be between 1 and 30 minutes so pause for a beer, coffee, lunch, or spend the time gathering up your tools, etc for the task. Airbags are expensive and you don't want one to accidentally inflate, which may also cause injury. They can launch a person off the ground so you can imagine what might happen to your fingers if not carefull! (search You Tube for "airbag pranks" if you want to see someone else get hurt)

Ok, back to your question of removing the bag itself. I have not done a Ford product in a long time but reading this might be held in place by clips rather than nuts, screws, bolts, torx head or otherwise. Most of those would be obvious if inspected with a light and a mirror. Hard to explain how those clips might be released but I suspect a little study up close may help. I know I spent 30 minutes swearing at a GM product the first time I had to deal with a clip-in system. What I did was use a wide blade screw driver to gain a little space (and a flash light) so I could see how the clip worked. Of course I had the wheel turned for a better view, so remember to turn it back to "straight ahead" once the airbag is finally off. This is a MUST as the new clock-spring may be damaged! It can only turn so far in either direction so the starting from the center point is critical.

BTW, do NOT reconnect the battery till everything is fully assembled or you may set trouble codes in the airbag system. Also be aware the engine may run slightly rough till it warms up due to the ECM having to "learn" again. It should be fine by the next cold start.
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