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ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
05-31-2008, 05:05 PM
Post: #1
ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
I built a trike with a Volkswagon engine. I'm having trouble getting to start. It won't start consistantly. It will start with the battery charger because the battery gives out otherwise. However, it won't restart when you shut it off. The oil in my pan is double the amount I started with and is a milky color. What could be causing this and how can I fix it. I put in a new coil which didn't help. It has new coils, distributor, points and rotor and cap. I cleaned the engine very well and rebuilt it before I put it on the trike. Thank you for any help. Richard
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05-31-2008, 11:01 PM
Post: #2
RE: ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
I can second guess this one all day unless you give us more info.

Water cooled, air cooled, displacement, trans type? (manual, auto, autostick)

The starting problem is no cranking, sluggish cranking, or cranks normally but fails to fire up?

Is this a weird combination of engine / trans? (aftermarket adaptor plates, flywheel, starter, etc?)

I have fairly extensive experience with early air cooled combinations so fire away if that's the case.

Rupe
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06-01-2008, 12:55 PM
Post: #3
RE: ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
Rupe Wrote:I can second guess this one all day unless you give us more info.

Water cooled, air cooled, displacement, trans type? (manual, auto, autostick)

The starting problem is no cranking, sluggish cranking, or cranks normally but fails to fire up?

Is this a weird combination of engine / trans? (aftermarket adaptor plates, flywheel, starter, etc?)

I have fairly extensive experience with early air cooled combinations so fire away if that's the case. it is a air cooled about a 1968 0k

Rupe
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06-01-2008, 04:50 PM
Post: #4
RE: ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
it is a air cooled about a 1968 ok it will stared but not all the time in a row
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06-01-2008, 11:31 PM
Post: #5
RE: ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
OK, I'll try to make this easy. If the engin number at the base of the generator stand starts with a letter (most likely a B through a G) it's probably a 68 or a 69 vintage and originaly a 1500 or 1600 CC displacment. That engne originally had a 30 PICT or a 32 PICT carb. If it's got 34 PICT carb and dual runners on the intake manifold (each side) then it's later vintage. (70 and up) All of these combinations are within the same basic engine family and all of the issues will be exactly the same.

Let's take a look at the milky oil problem. That's caused by moisture and since you have an air cooled engine we can rule out mechanical falures such as head gaskets, cracked heads, and cracked blocks. Typically the problem is in cars with lots of short run time and faulty crank case breather components. We're talking about simple stuff like that hose by the oil fill, which is supposed to connect to the original air filter housing and the "duck bill" which is located on the end of the road draft tube. If these are not connected properly and working as intended the engine builds up internal condensation. (water)

Now, since this is an abstract use of the engine I'll presume that you have an aftermarket air filter, which may or may not have the breather connection. If it's left open and exposed to the elements (common in your application) it can also collect rain water. The air filter may also allow rain to enter the carb and drip down through the manifold. Water can enter via a bad oil filler cap gasket as well. That's where I would start.

As for the starting problem, that may be related to the water / moisture or may be another mechanical issue. Water in the cylinders will most certainly act just like a bad starter or bad batery and will also go into the oil.

Other common problems in your application concerning starting might be related to a mis-match of engine / trans combinations because certain flywheels do not mate up properly with the different starter motors used in different years. (different diameters and tooth counts wil cause binding and eventual failure) IOW, if you are using a late 60's engine with an early "swing axle" trans (rubber boots and enclosed shafts) there are a limited selection of starter / flywheel combinations. All of those starters are listed as 6 volt too.

Get started on the diagnosis and give me more feed back and I can coach you further on this delema.

Rupe
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06-03-2008, 05:23 PM
Post: #6
RE: ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
If the oil in the oil pan is double the amount you started with and is milky. What about a leaking mecanical fuel pump? That would cause the higher oil level but the milky oil? Maybe water in gas and gas mixing with oil?

Cary Joe York
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06-03-2008, 11:33 PM
Post: #7
RE: ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
Good observation there CJ and VW was famous for that years ago because the fuel tank was always higher than the engine anyway. IOW, a common enough issue but that doesn't make the oil milky.

Let's wait for more feedback from the owner and see where this goes.

BTW, the VW engine in question does not have a seal on the back end of the engine (just a slinger) so if it's rain water it will eventually just drool out on the ground and there will be no oil.

Rupe
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06-04-2008, 10:44 PM
Post: #8
RE: ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
Betcha its been run with no aircleaner . Or as in the case of one of my neighbors , he had a dune buggy with a velocity stack on it ,even when it rained.
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06-05-2008, 10:07 PM
Post: #9
RE: ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
Thats all new to me. I'm not an old VW tech. Most of my work has been on newer VW's.

Cary Joe York
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06-05-2008, 10:21 PM
Post: #10
RE: ENGINE OIL IS MILKY
I'm an old hand at air cooled V-dubs. Got a 65 transporter and a 73 "Thing" coming to my shop in a few weeks.
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