http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/ Mon, 06 Sep 2010 21:44:55 +0000 MyBB http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2102 Mon, 06 Sep 2010 14:11:19 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2102 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2101 Sun, 05 Sep 2010 08:33:54 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2101 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2100 Fri, 03 Sep 2010 19:30:27 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2100 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2099 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:49:29 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2099 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2098 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 11:37:55 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2098
I just rotated the tires on my 2008 Suburban. I do this every 10,000 miles or every other oil change. The vehicle has 80,000 miles and runs great. After I rotated the tires, the front brakes started to squeal when the pedal is applied lightly to moderately, but not during hard braking.

I visually inspected the brakes when the wheels were off and all four brakes looked nearly new - inside and outside pads. I did use an impact gun set to approx 100 lbs to remove and replace the wheels as i normally do. The wheels are 17 inch aluminum. The brakes are original. I didn't touch any part of the braking system during the service as my hands were greasy/oily from the oil change. I'm stumped as to why the brakes are squeaking, but I can't ignore the fact that it started immediately after I serviced the vehicle.

If anybody has any ideas please let me know.

Thank you,
Anthony - Temecula, CA]]>
I just rotated the tires on my 2008 Suburban. I do this every 10,000 miles or every other oil change. The vehicle has 80,000 miles and runs great. After I rotated the tires, the front brakes started to squeal when the pedal is applied lightly to moderately, but not during hard braking.

I visually inspected the brakes when the wheels were off and all four brakes looked nearly new - inside and outside pads. I did use an impact gun set to approx 100 lbs to remove and replace the wheels as i normally do. The wheels are 17 inch aluminum. The brakes are original. I didn't touch any part of the braking system during the service as my hands were greasy/oily from the oil change. I'm stumped as to why the brakes are squeaking, but I can't ignore the fact that it started immediately after I serviced the vehicle.

If anybody has any ideas please let me know.

Thank you,
Anthony - Temecula, CA]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2097 Wed, 01 Sep 2010 17:44:38 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2097 Thanks,
Dave]]> Thanks,
Dave]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2096 Wed, 01 Sep 2010 08:12:25 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2096
This code appears instantly after erasing DTC. I get no other DTCs. All systems: evap, cat, O2, O2 heaters etc. Are all happy in reasonable time after reset. My engine wiring diagram also shows an Octane Adjust that is sourced by the same line as all the above mentioned sensors. What is it? Where is it? and Why is it?

I imagine this signal is picking up noise from somewhere. I even swapped the battery thinking it may be causing some noise issues. Alternator is working as it has been for years. Is is possible this octane adjust or the alternator is inducing some noise on this line??? Engine runs but it seems to have some slight misses along the way. There are no misfire codes, random or specific cylinders.

Lost in Texas, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

HighGear]]>
This code appears instantly after erasing DTC. I get no other DTCs. All systems: evap, cat, O2, O2 heaters etc. Are all happy in reasonable time after reset. My engine wiring diagram also shows an Octane Adjust that is sourced by the same line as all the above mentioned sensors. What is it? Where is it? and Why is it?

I imagine this signal is picking up noise from somewhere. I even swapped the battery thinking it may be causing some noise issues. Alternator is working as it has been for years. Is is possible this octane adjust or the alternator is inducing some noise on this line??? Engine runs but it seems to have some slight misses along the way. There are no misfire codes, random or specific cylinders.

Lost in Texas, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

HighGear]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2095 Tue, 31 Aug 2010 16:32:00 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2095 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2094 Sat, 28 Aug 2010 14:11:45 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2094 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2093 Sat, 28 Aug 2010 07:15:29 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2093
Im having some weird problems with my tail lights/brakelights. First of all, my tail lights wont go out, ever. The only way I can get them to go out is to pull the fuse for them. Though there is an exception to this. If my brake switch is in place properly, my tail lights stay off, but never come on, at all. But if I let it hang, the tail lights stay on, and never go out. Also, my brakelights do not work at all either. And if I have my brake switch hanging and my tail lights are on, if I turn my headlights on, they go out completely. Its confusing, I know. I am baffled beyond reasoning. I had my BCM replaced about 8 weeks ago, so dont know if that would affect anything. I have put in now brakelights, a new brake switch, and a new multi-function switch, all to no avail. It is a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2WD 4.0L V6 with an Automatic Transmission. The last 9 of my VIN if it helps any is 4XC775027. I will donate when I get some apre money, but that BCM a couple montsh ago drained me.]]>
Im having some weird problems with my tail lights/brakelights. First of all, my tail lights wont go out, ever. The only way I can get them to go out is to pull the fuse for them. Though there is an exception to this. If my brake switch is in place properly, my tail lights stay off, but never come on, at all. But if I let it hang, the tail lights stay on, and never go out. Also, my brakelights do not work at all either. And if I have my brake switch hanging and my tail lights are on, if I turn my headlights on, they go out completely. Its confusing, I know. I am baffled beyond reasoning. I had my BCM replaced about 8 weeks ago, so dont know if that would affect anything. I have put in now brakelights, a new brake switch, and a new multi-function switch, all to no avail. It is a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2WD 4.0L V6 with an Automatic Transmission. The last 9 of my VIN if it helps any is 4XC775027. I will donate when I get some apre money, but that BCM a couple montsh ago drained me.]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2092 Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:38:09 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2092
thx.]]>
thx.]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2091 Fri, 27 Aug 2010 02:40:16 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2091 Name's Eric, I own a 1998 Ford Contour LX with the 2.5 litre 6-Cylinder 24 valve DOHC engine. Currently has 230 xxx kms on it. History: had some sender issues, which gave the appearence that the car was overheating, really it wasn't just had to replace sender. New water pump, fans, and radiator. Has a small power failure sometimes when it engages into drive after backing it off my driveway. Has a engine light on, have tried to remedy this issue by checking several sensors and replacing the necesaries. Oxygen sensors were replaced, and the cat. converter, however didn't remedy this issue. Was once told it was a tranny code but had it inspected by a trusted friend who deals in transmissions and the transmisson has no issues. Other then that no major issues.

Main Problem: Recently, (2 weeks from this date) preformed a intake manifold gasket replacement on both the upper and lower intakes. Managed to remove the lower without taking off the fuel rail (to save time) as I was told you may have to remove the rail to get at it. Went smoothly, thoroughly cleaned and was put together nicely. Made sure everything went together again like it came off. However, go to start the car and it wont start figured I missed a wire, didnt put something on right, went back in and reviewed everything. Seemed everything was in order so back together with more caution and still, won't start. Checked fuel rail, looks in good shape, checked for kinks in the line, nope not it, can clearly smell fuel getting there. Checked spark plugs, and definately getting a spark. Thought maybe a wire broke, a wire to the injectors...but don't know if thats really plausible.. even then should still fire atleast and run rough. On taking the intake apart the first time, did notice that one of the wires to the distributor wasn't connected properly and had some corrosion on contacts but cleaned it up and reconnected it properly. Out of idea's and need help, only car we have to get my kid's to school and our city doesn't have transportation yet to the new community so NEED HELP!! any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated! hope the info was thorough enough for proper diagnostic]]> Name's Eric, I own a 1998 Ford Contour LX with the 2.5 litre 6-Cylinder 24 valve DOHC engine. Currently has 230 xxx kms on it. History: had some sender issues, which gave the appearence that the car was overheating, really it wasn't just had to replace sender. New water pump, fans, and radiator. Has a small power failure sometimes when it engages into drive after backing it off my driveway. Has a engine light on, have tried to remedy this issue by checking several sensors and replacing the necesaries. Oxygen sensors were replaced, and the cat. converter, however didn't remedy this issue. Was once told it was a tranny code but had it inspected by a trusted friend who deals in transmissions and the transmisson has no issues. Other then that no major issues.

Main Problem: Recently, (2 weeks from this date) preformed a intake manifold gasket replacement on both the upper and lower intakes. Managed to remove the lower without taking off the fuel rail (to save time) as I was told you may have to remove the rail to get at it. Went smoothly, thoroughly cleaned and was put together nicely. Made sure everything went together again like it came off. However, go to start the car and it wont start figured I missed a wire, didnt put something on right, went back in and reviewed everything. Seemed everything was in order so back together with more caution and still, won't start. Checked fuel rail, looks in good shape, checked for kinks in the line, nope not it, can clearly smell fuel getting there. Checked spark plugs, and definately getting a spark. Thought maybe a wire broke, a wire to the injectors...but don't know if thats really plausible.. even then should still fire atleast and run rough. On taking the intake apart the first time, did notice that one of the wires to the distributor wasn't connected properly and had some corrosion on contacts but cleaned it up and reconnected it properly. Out of idea's and need help, only car we have to get my kid's to school and our city doesn't have transportation yet to the new community so NEED HELP!! any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated! hope the info was thorough enough for proper diagnostic]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2090 Thu, 26 Aug 2010 20:42:09 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2090
The car began to lose power (similar to when an alternator fails) and when I came to a stop the car knocked off and would not restart. I have had the alternator and the battery check and both are fine. Someone mentioned the possibility of the coil pack -or- the module. Is anyone familiar with this problem?

I've had several GM's with this durable engine and have never had any problems at all. I'm lost on this one....

Thanks in advance!]]>
The car began to lose power (similar to when an alternator fails) and when I came to a stop the car knocked off and would not restart. I have had the alternator and the battery check and both are fine. Someone mentioned the possibility of the coil pack -or- the module. Is anyone familiar with this problem?

I've had several GM's with this durable engine and have never had any problems at all. I'm lost on this one....

Thanks in advance!]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2089 Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:35:01 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2089
97 Geo Tracker 1.6L Automatic. I was "told" that it has a P0720-TCC code. When I looked up P0720 I came up with Output Speed Sensor. I drove this vehicle and the speedometer worked and it seemed to shift fine. The only thing that I didn't pay attention to was if Lock Up worked.

I don't need a detailed explanation on how Speed Sensors or the TCC circuit works as I spent several years rebuilding transmissions. I would just like to know if anyone else has run into this problem with a Tracker? I have owned 2 trackers and one Sidekick and they were all standard. They all ran well over 100,000 miles, one had over 198,000. I am looking to by the one with this code and it would be my first experience with an automatic Tracker. I never even worked on one in the transmission shop. So I was just looking for a little information if anyone has run into this before. Please bear in mind that the guy may call me and tell me that it was a different code.

Thanks, Garner]]>
97 Geo Tracker 1.6L Automatic. I was "told" that it has a P0720-TCC code. When I looked up P0720 I came up with Output Speed Sensor. I drove this vehicle and the speedometer worked and it seemed to shift fine. The only thing that I didn't pay attention to was if Lock Up worked.

I don't need a detailed explanation on how Speed Sensors or the TCC circuit works as I spent several years rebuilding transmissions. I would just like to know if anyone else has run into this problem with a Tracker? I have owned 2 trackers and one Sidekick and they were all standard. They all ran well over 100,000 miles, one had over 198,000. I am looking to by the one with this code and it would be my first experience with an automatic Tracker. I never even worked on one in the transmission shop. So I was just looking for a little information if anyone has run into this before. Please bear in mind that the guy may call me and tell me that it was a different code.

Thanks, Garner]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2088 Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:59:02 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2088 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2087 Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:39:46 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2087 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2086 Tue, 24 Aug 2010 17:05:14 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2086
Also, I just got my oil changed on sun aug 22nd, and the "Service Engine Soon" light just came on today (aug 24th). The car seems fine and I just got an oil change so I don't know why the Service Engine Soon light is on... is there anyway I can figure out? Ugh I hope it's not something serious... is it likely its serious?]]>
Also, I just got my oil changed on sun aug 22nd, and the "Service Engine Soon" light just came on today (aug 24th). The car seems fine and I just got an oil change so I don't know why the Service Engine Soon light is on... is there anyway I can figure out? Ugh I hope it's not something serious... is it likely its serious?]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2085 Mon, 23 Aug 2010 18:43:23 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2085
Thank you,
Pat]]>
Thank you,
Pat]]> http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2084 Sun, 22 Aug 2010 11:56:11 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2084 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2083 Sat, 21 Aug 2010 20:26:40 -0700 http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?tid=2083
96 Grand Caravan ES (loaded) that starts then stalls within a few seconds, and the gauges are all dead. A few months ago the gauges went dead while it was already runing so to humor myself I pounded my fist on the dash. Everything started working again and the check engine light came on. I forgot the exact code but it was a (serial buss?) communications error.

Anyway, last weekend and 100 miles from home it started and dies within 3 seconds repeatedly so I call AAA for the tow (first 100 miles covered) after playing with it for a few hours in the rain. Take it to the local dealer because they have the special scanners for the BCM and all of the communications, which I don't have here and certainly didn't have access to away from home. They find nothing and it runs fine so I drive it home.

This weekend I dig for info and find out if the dash goes dead it triggers an issue with the anti-theft system to kill the engine. Long story made short I remove the cluster and hit everything (carefully) with a hot soldering iron to resecure all of the old joints on the board.

Here are the links.... (seems 96 and up are similar)

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/archive/...http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-1

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2dlk...http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2dlks-97-dodge-grand-caravan-starts-but-shuts-off-in

(note: pictures are in reverse order for some reason so start at the bottom of the page)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/landar/with/3474557830/
(also in slide show format but moves too fast)

http://cobweb.ecn.purdue.edu/~leaird/98C...http://cobweb.ecn.purdue.edu/~leaird/98CaravanIn

Hope this will help someone else!]]>
96 Grand Caravan ES (loaded) that starts then stalls within a few seconds, and the gauges are all dead. A few months ago the gauges went dead while it was already runing so to humor myself I pounded my fist on the dash. Everything started working again and the check engine light came on. I forgot the exact code but it was a (serial buss?) communications error.

Anyway, last weekend and 100 miles from home it started and dies within 3 seconds repeatedly so I call AAA for the tow (first 100 miles covered) after playing with it for a few hours in the rain. Take it to the local dealer because they have the special scanners for the BCM and all of the communications, which I don't have here and certainly didn't have access to away from home. They find nothing and it runs fine so I drive it home.

This weekend I dig for info and find out if the dash goes dead it triggers an issue with the anti-theft system to kill the engine. Long story made short I remove the cluster and hit everything (carefully) with a hot soldering iron to resecure all of the old joints on the board.

Here are the links.... (seems 96 and up are similar)

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/archive/...http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-1

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2dlk...http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2dlks-97-dodge-grand-caravan-starts-but-shuts-off-in

(note: pictures are in reverse order for some reason so start at the bottom of the page)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/landar/with/3474557830/
(also in slide show format but moves too fast)

http://cobweb.ecn.purdue.edu/~leaird/98C...http://cobweb.ecn.purdue.edu/~leaird/98CaravanIn

Hope this will help someone else!]]>